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edk
13-10-2010, 03:03 PM
UPDATED January 2013

Useful related forum links:
Difference between DCi 112 and 136 engines in the N16 (http://www.almeraownersclub.com/threads/25662-Difference-between-112-and-136bhp-engines-in-the-N16)
DCi Buyers Guide Things to look out for Weaknesses (http://www.almeraownersclub.com/threads/39572-DCi-Buyers-Guide-Things-to-look-out-for-Weaknesses)



This thread is here to aid and provide you with information on how to best tune your engine, but it might also be of use to anyone wanting to simply learn more about the engine. Please take special note of the turbo section as it tells you about the faults and weaknesses of the turbo and how you might be able to go about preventing future turbo failure (a common problem of the 2.2 DCi engine across the board).

Based on my research of diesel tuning and information from other forums here are some things that can be done to get the best out of the YD22DDTi (Nissan 2.2 DCi).
Some of these I've applied to my car, the rest are work/research in progress. I will also link to posts as and when I know the finer details i.e. the exact pipes and IC needed for that upgrade.

For handling upgrades on the N16 please look elsewhere in the forums as they apply to all models.


General Maintenance
----------------------------------------------------------
Engine Oil information - http://www.almeraownersclub.com/threads/2-2-dci-oil-info.39165

ECU & Fuel Pump Reset Procedure - http://www.almeraownersclub.com/threads/reset-fuel-pump-n16-dci.46047/

Threads of interest -
http://www.npoc.co.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=44275&title=nissan-primera-p12-lack-of-power
http://www.npoc.co.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=44222&title=nissan-primera-p12-fuel-pressure-problems
http://www.almeraownersclub.com/threads/39340-Almera-2.2-Di-SE-quot-intermitant-loss-of-power-quot



Known Fuel Pump Problems / Power Loss
----------------------------------------------------------
Symptoms Ė Lack of power, P0089 fault code.
Cause is often the SCV Suction Control Valve and might need to be replaced, along with a pump relearn done at a Nissan dealer (or use the ECU and pump reset procedure here for free!). Try the reset first as this might be enough to fix it without buying a new SCV. However we know that the SCV has been updated by Nissan since car manufacture (part no NA6860AW42B), so for peace of mind you may want to replace it anyway.

Related links
-------------
How To Replace SCV - http://www.npoc.co.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=63206

http://www.npoc.co.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=44275&title=nissan-primera-p12-lack-of-power

http://www.npoc.co.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=44222&title=nissan-primera-p12-fuel-pressure-problems



Turbo Issues, and Why They Fail
----------------------------------------------------------
As with anything, good maintenance is key. Regular oil changes and decent oil will help prolong turbo life. Also allow the turbo to spool down after a run (once stopped allow the engine to run for a minute or so before switching off wherever possible). Don't rev the car hard on a cold engine; allow the oil to get up to temperature.

The stock Garrett GT1849V 727477s were built with flaws, not helped by Nissan's mapping/boost sensor. Here's a bit of background to help explain those flaws. VNT controls boost pressure unlike a wastegate without VNT (like the GT1549 in the Di). It's designed to reduce lag and produce more boost at low RPM. The vanes are adjusted via an actuator that is controlled by the ECU.
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm117/edkeating/Car/vtg-sequenz.gif
[video=youtube;Gc2awh0O0Bc]Gc2awh0O0Bc
More angle, more exhaust flow onto the vanes, more boost. As the revs increase the turbo goes into overboost, which is detected by the ECU, and moves the vanes to a more shallow angle to prevent the boost from climbing.

So, the problem was that the turbo did not come back from overboost quick enough. The ECU's original mapping and/or poor boost sensor caused this (both changed in a recall). This together with the turbo being built with too thin a turbine shaft led to turbo failing. The turbo overspeeds for too long causing wear on the bearings and warping the shaft. The vanes can then catch the side of the housing. For some reason only one piece of a vane tends to come off on impact, but if that piece collides with anything else, you see catastrophic failure.

Newer parts have replaced the thin shaft so if your turbo is reconditioned then it's likely the shaft has been replaced. If the car has had the recall work done as well then it's unlikely to be a problem. Earlier 727477-2 models VNT could be set via a screw which probably didnít help the overspeeding problems. Later -5 versions did not have this screw and were set at factory. I've seen reference to new turbos being -6.

The best way in my opinion to make the turbo stronger and more reliable is to make it a hybrid turbo ('http://www.turbotechnics.com/docs/turbo/hybrid.htm'). More reliable in a stock engine, and withstand the extra tolerances of providing more boost that's required to get a good deal more power out of the YD22 engine.

Turbo Technics can supply hybrid turbos and can be trusted with VNT too - What's a Hybrid Turbo? ('http://www.turbotechnics.com/docs/turbo/hybrid.htm')

See 'Hybrid Turbo' section for tuning options.




Modifications / Tuning / Upgrades available to the best of my knowledge. I'll lay out the options (not in any order).



Exhaust
----------------------------------------------------------
Exhaust Recommendation Thread - http://www.almeraownersclub.com/threads ... ice.24110/ (http://www.almeraownersclub.com/threads/exhaust-system-advice.24110/)

-Turbo back mandrel bent 2.5" SS. Powerspeed ('http://www.powerspeed.co.uk/') in Kent £420 (expect to pay more now, as this was back in October 2008).
Obviously this isnít Diesel specific but this was the place I went to get mine done.
-Phil in Stafford
-MIJ in Birmingham
-ProSpeed in South Wales



Induction and Cooling (excluding turbo)
----------------------------------------------------------
-HKS, K&N, Green, and BMC all make drop panel air filters.
-BMC CDA carbon enclosed air induction kit, best used with a cold air feed £160.
-K&N Apollo, made for the 2.5 Navara but seems like it could fit the 2.2 too.

-Larger IC and pipes - http://www.almeraownersclub.com/threads ... dci.44111/ (http://www.almeraownersclub.com/threads/aftermarket-upgrade-intercooler-and-pipes-on-2-2-dci.44111/)
This replaces all pipes and intercooler going from the turbo, to the hard MAP pipe directly to the right of the engine block. I'll be replacing this right up to intake manifold in future.

-Water/Meth Injection. Devils Own ('http://www.methanol-injection.co.uk/'), and AEM do kits. A quick Google to see the benefits here, and/or check out TDOC forums.



Fueling
----------------------------------------------------------
-Tuning Box. Diesel Power Tuning (DPT) box. Plugs right into the fuel rail sensor and intercepts the signal to the ECU and adjusts the fueling. I had this on my car along with the panel filter and exhaust and was doing approx 150bhp 240 ftlb. The power delivery was much smoother and gave a really strong feel to the engine. Recommended if you're not going for heavy tuning or want more power until you can do more later on. An increase of 5mpg on average was seen too. Paramount Performance £350.

-DTE Systems http://www.dte-diesel-tuning.com. A tuning box tested on the Navara with great results. 171bhp to 215bhp with just the box and a k&n panel filter. Would be interesting to see what results you'd see on the Almera.

-Uprated Diesel pump and injectors. Most likely from the Nissan Navara 2.5 DCi (YD25DDTi). That engine is 171bhp standard. Pump might be coded and not sure if it'll fit (likely it will though, both).
Injectors we can use Navara injector tips or get the standard ones honed to a larger bore (seek Diesel specialist). Both will allow more fuel to flow. Something worth looking at if going for more than 210bhp.



EGR Valve
----------------------------------------------------------
How To Clean the EGR / Intake Manifold - http://www.almeraownersclub.com/threads/cleaning-the-egr-valve-and-inlet-manifold-on-n16-dci.32237/
EGR Blanking (but will throw up MIL light) - http://www.almeraownersclub.com/threads/n16-dci-r.21741/page-51#post-448782

Exhaust gas recirculation is used to keep emissions in check. It forces exhaust gas back into the inlet manifold where any unburnt fuel is recombusted, and reduce any NOX gases being expelled to atmos. It is also supposed to help keep exhaust temps down. The problem is that all the soot and unburnt waste that is inherently expelled by Diesel engines ends up getting stuck all round the inlet manifold. After a short while even, this can lead to a completely clogged up inlet ('http://www.tdocuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=4983'), and reduced performance. I'm going to take a day and take apart the EGR system and inlet manifold and get it cleaned up.

Blanking off EGRs is common and will mean you won't get clogged inlet manifold again in the future. Many have praised the effects of blanking it off. Because it is supposed to reduce gas temps it's a good idea to monitor these temps with an EGT gauge. You'd need to get a thread tapped into the exhaust (easier if you've got a custom one and have removed the CAT coming off the turbo). I'm going to contact Nissan and ask for nominal exhaust gas temps and will post them up so we know what to aim for and what level to set a warning if your gauge can do so.

Note: Because actual blanking throws up a check light on our cars, you can just unplug the EGR valve (grey connector). This will also throw up a check light but just plugging it back in and it will disappear. If you keep it disconnected it's an idea to read the codes once in a while to check nothing else is going on!



ECU Remap/Management Options
----------------------------------------------------------
First off the ECU in these cars are made by Denso. These are notorious for being difficult to crack and therefore remap. This is why the options don't just simply list 'get a remap', otherwise that's what I'd say.

-Remap of the Denso ECU. RS Tuning in Leeds have this ability Ė http://www.rstuning.co.uk/. 100% trust and respect given to Paul there who can work his magic on this engine. This is who I've gone to for mine.

-A few other tuners have the ability to remap this ECU now so keep an eye out.

-Dastek Unichip Q (http://www.dastek.co.uk/unichip.htm) with remap - Piggyback ECU supplied, fitted and remapped. Expect to pay anything from £450 to £750, depending on who you go to. A list of suppliers is available on the Dastek website. Other piggy-back ECUs are avilable but I can't comment on any type of piggy-back ECU or as to how well it would work on our car.

-Stand alone ECU (expensive but comprehensive fine tuning, option for all out performance if you have the budget).



Hybrid Turbo
----------------------------------------------------------
Most of us know about the short falls of the Garrett 727477 turbo. With these problems you would be less inclined to run more boost through it. It seems even on a standard map they are likely to blow up with Primeras, X-Trails and Almeras alike sometimes going through a turbo every year!

A Hybrid Turbo is designed to be stronger and more efficient. Bigger bearings and a super accurately balanced shaft and turbine/compressor wheel allow the turbo to operate reliably, and cut back vanes with a machined housing improve gas flow.

Give this treatment to a GT1849V 727477 and you're on to a winner. Turbo Technics are the people to take this on and they do a superb job at that. The unit is a direct fit as the exterior of the housing isnít changed in any way. Whether you're tuning your DCi or simply looking for a more reliable solution and/or a replacement turbo I can't recommend this product highly enough. Don't buy twice with a refurbished standard unit or even a new one from Nissan.

After the turbo is fitted you'll notice and improvement in drive. The turbo is much more responsive and gives a more confident feel even from 1000rpm, and you'll find MPG improved all round, especially on longer runs.

Part Number: See Turbo Catalogue on their website.
Fitment: Direct fit, no modifications required.
Cost: £550 approx.

Tel: 01604 705050
http://www.turbotechnics.com/

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm117/edkeating/Car/Almera/Engine/Turbo/TT%20Hybrid/hIMG_0131.jpg

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm117/edkeating/Car/Almera/Engine%20Bay/fitting%20the%20hybrid%20turbo/IMG_0145.jpg

When fitting a new turbo it's recommended that you replace the relevant gaskets and studs/nuts (especially the oil feed gasket, it can leak otherwise). Oil feed hard pipe should be replaced too.



Clutch
----------------------------------------------------------
UK clutch upgrades are limited, and so far only Black Diamond make one, but it's quite expensive and the upgrade is not huge. There are OEM equivalent ones by Sachs, Exedy, Black Diamond again and LuK.
The stock Nissan clutch seems very strong and hold fine until it starts to wear then anything above 320lbft it starts to slip in the high gears under load.
Here's some specs of the standard clutch for the DCi from Exedy's website, and what else those parts are used in:

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm117/edkeating/Car/Almera/parts/ClutchspecExedyDisc.jpghttp://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm117/edkeating/Car/Almera/parts/ClutchspecExedyCover.jpg

Shared Specs: Skyline RB25DE, 300ZX VG30DE, Maxima/QX VG30DE, Silvia FJ20T, Terrano TD27T. While both the pressure plate and discs are the same specs I only assume they're not the same part number because of different strengths, and having sprung clutch discs while the DCi does not.

So to take more than 320lbft and for longevity, we can turn to ACT Clutches. I've discovered that this combo will fit the DCi flywheel. Clutches made for the Skyline GTS-T 2.5 (RB25) and N/A 300ZX (vG30DE).

ACT Pressure Plate: Heavy Duty N013 = 410lbft, Xtreme N013X = 490lbft both when used with street full face disc.
Clutch Disc: LuK or Sachs OEM replacement. ACT custom uprated replacement which I'm working on getting made, or use a UK clutch specialist to re-material the rigid OEM disc.
ACT Rigid Puk Clutch Disc holds more torque but is less easy to drive for street: with Heavy Duty plate = 4/6 puk 525lbft, with Xtreme plate = 4/6 puk 630lbft.

This is all to be used with the standard Dual Mass Flywheel (DMF). If you choose to go solid or single mass flywheel (only a custom option at this stage) then you can use a sprung clutch disc. The ACT sprung disc can be bought as a kit with that same pressure plate: NS3-XTSS. But there is still question over how noisy and harsh converting to a single mass fly would have on this Diesel. VAG tuners have found it to be very bad and noisy and very unrefined so not great if you use daily, but it's anyone's guess how the YD22 will behave so knock yourselves out if you're willing to trial it.

ACT can be bought from eBay International, Apex Performance (UK), SRB Power, etc.



Transmission/Gearbox
----------------------------------------------------------
The YD22DDTi (DCi 136) has a 6 speed manual gearbox (RS6F51R). It comes with an open differential. With more torque and power youíre going to start spinning up the wheel that has least traction. Powering out of corners often makes the inside wheel spin up. To distribute the power evenly an LSD is used. In Europe we have no such option.

In the US the B15 Sentra SE-R SpecV (QR25DE) has the same gearbox (RS6F51H), albeit different ratios. This comes with an HLSD (Helical Limited Slip Differential) This transmission is used in the A33 Maxima with the VQ30 engine, coming in tow types; RS6F51V fitted with a viscous LSD (VLSD), and also with a non-LSD type just like the DCi's, the RS6F51A.

Helical = gear driven, holds under harsh conditions, engages instantly
Viscous = fluid driven, overheats when pushed hard, takes a while to engage

The differentials are interchangeable and the one to go for is the Sentra's HLSD. There are however differences between the YD22 and QR25 driveshaft setup as noted below:
Sentra QR25DE - Inner CV 29 spline, Outer CV 27 spline.
Almera YD22 - Inner CV 39 spline, Outer CV 27 spline.
Lucky the inner splines is the only difference and the lengths are the same. This difference is the only thing I can tell that makes it an 'R' in the transmission code.

Differential Part Number: 38411-8U010

Can be bought new from Nissan US, Courtesy Nissan Parts, or used from B15Sentra.net or eBay US.

You can of course also buy a whole transmission from eBay or B15Sentra.net from someone and rip out the diff but shipping would be crazy.


TRANSMISSION REFERENCE MATERIAL
------------------
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm117/edkeating/Car/Almera/SERVICE%20MANUAL/th_MT_RS6F51R_N16.jpg (http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/mm117/edkeating/Car/Almera/SERVICE%20MANUAL/?action=view¤t=MT_RS6F51R_N16.jpg) http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm117/edkeating/Car/Almera/SERVICE%20MANUAL/th_MT_RS6F51A_A33.jpg (http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/mm117/edkeating/Car/Almera/SERVICE%20MANUAL/?action=view¤t=MT_RS6F51A_A33.jpg)

Differential Close-Ups

N16 RS6F51R
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm117/edkeating/Car/Almera/SERVICE%20MANUAL/th_MT_RS6F51R_N16_DIFFCLOSEUP.jpg (http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/mm117/edkeating/Car/Almera/SERVICE%20MANUAL/?action=view¤t=MT_RS6F51R_N16_DIFFCLOSEUP.jpg)

A33 RS6F51A
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm117/edkeating/Car/Almera/SERVICE%20MANUAL/th_MT_RS6F51A_A33_DIFFCLOSEUP.jpg (http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/mm117/edkeating/Car/Almera/SERVICE%20MANUAL/?action=view¤t=MT_RS6F51A_A33_DIFFCLOSEUP.jpg)

B15 RS6F51H
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm117/edkeating/Car/Almera/SERVICE%20MANUAL/th_MT_RS6F51H_B15_DIFFCLOSEUP.jpg (http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/mm117/edkeating/Car/Almera/SERVICE%20MANUAL/?action=view¤t=MT_RS6F51H_B15_DIFFCLOSEUP.jpg)

Reference: Maxima 5 gen LSD work - http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generation-maxima-2000-2003/578877-6th-gen-transmission.html

http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/engine-performance-2002-2006/282665-screw-lsd-tranny-swap-painful.html

YD22 DCi__________________________________QR25 SpecV
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm117/edkeating/Car/Almera/Engine/Transmission/88d2_1.jpg http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm117/edkeating/Car/Almera/Engine/Transmission/B15Spec-V6spDSC02107.jpg

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm117/edkeating/Car/Almera/Engine/Transmission/8d28_1.jpg http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm117/edkeating/Car/Almera/Engine/Transmission/TransmissionSentraB15QR25eb27_12.jpg

YD22 DCi Open Diff
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm117/edkeating/Car/Almera/Engine/Transmission/N16YD22DIFF.png

QR25 SpeV Open Diff
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm117/edkeating/Car/Almera/Engine/Transmission/b15u_381-7.gif

QR25 SepcV HSLD
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm117/edkeating/Car/Almera/Engine/Transmission/b15u_381-8.gif

jammapic
13-10-2010, 06:33 PM
Superb, and very informative read Ed... you should make this a sticky!

JP

Kiwibacon
24-10-2010, 07:35 AM
Excellent, you found the gearbox model. Do you know the final drive ratio of the YD22 box?

Black-Sheep
25-10-2010, 07:04 AM
verry good write up,
i'm highly interessted what i'll be like once the turbo is in :)

Kiwibacon
06-11-2010, 10:02 PM
I found online the factory performance figures for YD22 powered european nissans. Both the 82kw non intercooled and the 100kw intercooled versions. I presume it's the Almera, there is no model or year mentioned.
This spreadsheet has the gear ratios, drag coefficients, top speeds and acceleration times / braking distances for the YD22 and the QG18 models.

The 82kw version claims 0-100 in 12.2 seconds.
100kw is 10.6 seconds
QG18 manual is 12.7 seconds
QG18 auto is 14.2 seconds.

Interestingly enough, the shopping trolley I also own is a QG18 powered automatic, I think I can do 0-100 in about 13 seconds in that. Non turbo YD22 is currently around 26 seconds.

prherbert
27-11-2010, 10:21 PM
Hi guys i hope someone can help or point me in the right direction before i set light to the car....

My dad has a Primera 2.2 which originally had a YD22DDT engine in it. the timing chain snapped and he took it into his local garage who sourced second hand engine and said they'd fit it for him.
He paid them £1200 in total then told him to collect the car and it had an injector/nats problem and wouldn't start

He then took it to nissan who said it didn't but as they didn't do the work they wouldn't investigate it so he towed it home and its sat there for a few month and brought a cheap car to use.

So im now trying to sort it out for him, im handy-ish with cars.

on looking at the car, it cranks but just isn't firing (sound like its not getting fuel, fuel is being pumped around) the engine they have put in it is a YD22DDTI so i'd say that's the cause of the problem.

The original garage doesn't want to know anything about it saying they just fitted the engine my dad got (which they found and he just paid for it) they said the engine came with no fuel pump etc so the other parts in the car are the original parts except the engine.

Is there anyway of getting this to work without replacing the engine with a YD22DDT??? looking at it from a novice point of view, it seems to me that the fuel pressure or something is wrong if i put a fuel pump from a YD22DDTI in it would it work???

Thanks in advance for any help or light you could shine on it for me

edk
27-11-2010, 10:38 PM
The T (rather than Ti) might use a different fuel system (although I know the P12 premiere has a grey area with these compared to the Almera. I would recommend using a Ti Pimera ECU. Mixing types is always asking for trouble.

prherbert
27-11-2010, 10:55 PM
so i'd need to change the fuel pump and ecu? thanks for the advice

edk
28-11-2010, 12:20 AM
I'll try and find out some more info but I think that may be the case to be able to keep your engine. Nissan would have to code the ECU to the car/locks too then.

Kiwibacon
28-11-2010, 02:08 AM
The DDTi is a VP44 rotary fuel pump, AFAIK there's only one type.
Does it provide fuel to the injectors when you crank it? Crack off an injector nut and see if it spurts fuel.

It's quite possible they installed the fuel pump 180 deg out, so it's squirting fuel on the exhaust stroke instead of compression.

edk
28-11-2010, 08:58 AM
It's not mechanical and injection occurs when the solonoids open on the injectors?

Kiwibacon
28-11-2010, 09:04 AM
It's not mechanical and injection occurs when the solonoids open on the injectors?

That's how your commonrail DCi engine works.
My YD22DDi and YD25DDTi are mechanical rotary pump. There's electronic control of the pump timing (advance/retard) and injection quantity. Otherwise it's all mechanical.

Easy to spot which one you have. If you can see injectors poking out the top, it's commonrail. The DDTi engines have the injectors exiting the back of the head so the acoustic cover is flat.

timbo_1975
28-11-2010, 10:16 AM
Hi guys i hope someone can help or point me in the right direction before i set light to the car....

My dad has a Primera 2.2 which originally had a YD22DDT engine in it. the timing chain snapped and he took it into his local garage who sourced second hand engine and said they'd fit it for him.
He paid them £1200 in total then told him to collect the car and it had an injector/nats problem and wouldn't start

He then took it to nissan who said it didn't but as they didn't do the work they wouldn't investigate it so he towed it home and its sat there for a few month and brought a cheap car to use.

So im now trying to sort it out for him, im handy-ish with cars.

on looking at the car, it cranks but just isn't firing (sound like its not getting fuel, fuel is being pumped around) the engine they have put in it is a YD22DDTI so i'd say that's the cause of the problem.

The original garage doesn't want to know anything about it saying they just fitted the engine my dad got (which they found and he just paid for it) they said the engine came with no fuel pump etc so the other parts in the car are the original parts except the engine.

Is there anyway of getting this to work without replacing the engine with a YD22DDT??? looking at it from a novice point of view, it seems to me that the fuel pressure or something is wrong if i put a fuel pump from a YD22DDTI in it would it work???

Thanks in advance for any help or light you could shine on it for me

It is not clear whether you did or now have a mis-matched engine from the original- VP44 or common rail. Anyway in either case if the new engine has been fitted complete with its own fuel pump and or injectors (I.e. NOT the broken engines pump + injectors) then it will definately NOT start as is. Could you confirm which is the case?

The vp44 pump is coded to the vehicle ECU, and with the common rail engine, the injectors are soft-coded to the ecu.

Therefore to make it work, you have two options.

1) Re code the ecu with the nissan Consult to work with the new engine as is.

2) Swap the CR Injectors old engine to new. This is fraught with problems- often the injectors are seized in the head and break on removal, or are damaged from the engine failure. If you did manage to swap them, then the ecu would still need to be put into smooth running calibration mode via the Consult as the new engine will run differently to old. If you have the VP44 DI version then swap the original pump on to the new engine.

The 1) would be the best option I think.

prherbert
28-11-2010, 12:10 PM
thanks for the info lads.... there is fuel coming out of the injectors i loosened them and it gulped out rather than sprayed out. its was a few months ago that it was changed and the garage doesnt want to talk to me any more.... as far as i know the injectors are the new ones that came with the engine.... fuel pump i dont no but was told the engine came with nothing so assuming its the old one.... The top of the engine is flat with an electric plug to each injector. the injectors have a fuel feed to each one behind towards the back of the car.... it now has a ddti engine in.
so if i check (how do i) and put in a pump from a dti engine and get it coded by nissan should it work?

prherbert
28-11-2010, 06:56 PM
got a reply from a guy from another forum who has the same problem and he fixed it by replaceing camshaft sensor, injectors, dual mass flywheel and fuel pump off the di engine and it worked......

i believe the fuel pump and flywheel are from the old one anyway!

can anyone confirm this would work? reason being the old engine is gone now so would be buying theses part (injector and camshaft sensor)

Kiwibacon
28-11-2010, 08:31 PM
The electric plugs to each injector confirm you've got the commonrail engine.

edk
21-01-2011, 12:50 AM
Updated the transmission section in the first post with differential upgrade details.

edk
24-01-2013, 04:00 AM
Long overdue re-write and update of info in the first post.

Kiwibacon
24-01-2013, 04:39 AM
Good rewrite ed, but most of the hyperlinks are showing broken in my firefox.

edk
24-01-2013, 04:44 AM
As in they don't go anywhere, or just not displaying a link correctly? I need to edit it to this forum's format for the display but the links themselves should work :)

Kiwibacon
24-01-2013, 05:35 AM
Not displaying correctly, which means I don't get a link to click on. Looks like syntax somewhere but I haven't checked it through.

edk
24-01-2013, 05:39 AM
Fixed it about half an hour ago mate so should be fine now???

-phone-

Tareim
24-01-2013, 11:13 AM
I can see a [url] tag not working properly and youtube

jammapic
25-01-2013, 10:46 AM
Stickied this, as it's full of very useful stuff.

edk
26-01-2013, 10:36 AM
Relentless internet trawling pays off!!

Thanks to this - http://www.thestalkingdirectory.co.uk/showthread.php/45781-towing-with-a-nissan-x-trail/

I've sent this -


Dear TTV Racing,

You recently helped someone (Geoff) with a Nissan X-Trail and provided a single mass fly conversion and clutch. I've got an Almera that has the same engine / flywheel / clutch combo as the X-Trail and was hoping you could sort out something similar please?

The engine's been modified to output 330lbft @ 2200rpm with plans to increase in the near future. The standard clutch has just started to slip and with the clutch change I thought I'd try a solid mass fly. Geoff seems to give a good review of his (no chatter even on idle) which was a worry that was holding me back before. The car sees occasional circuit and drag strip use.

I may be able to supply an uprated ACT clutch to go with it, or am happy to discuss further clutch options with you.

Many Thanks

Ed Keating


and am hoping for this - :):):)

Tareim
26-01-2013, 04:22 PM
sounds promising

Kiwibacon
26-01-2013, 09:54 PM
It will be interesting. Particularly how low in the rpm you can smoothly run with a solid flywheel. My YD22 which is probably around the 230Nm mark right now (haven't had time to tune, but 230Nm is way better than 150Nm) is rumble city below 1600rpm. My solid flywheel is slightly smaller diameter to clear the 4wd transfer but is very very heavy (22kg).

edk
26-01-2013, 10:20 PM
Yeah its a gamble but my main concern was the idle, which seems to be ok in the YD. Happy to have to give it a few revs to start or change down a gear for the overall benefits it will bring.

Running the torque i am and will be i don't want to fork out for a new DMF and worry that it might fail or wear before time.

-phone-

Kiwibacon
26-01-2013, 10:48 PM
Idle will be fine. It's lots of torque at low rpm (once you're getting boost) and particularly in high gears that you'll find the worst vibration.

My 4wd has a 16kg flywheel and not far off 600Nm. Torsional vibration is a problem in that one.

edk
26-01-2013, 10:55 PM
Well we shall see. Like i mentioned the chap with the X-Trail who converted said it ran fine. Im happy to trust that review.

-phone-

Kiwibacon
27-01-2013, 01:16 AM
Well we shall see. Like i mentioned the chap with the X-Trail who converted said it ran fine. Im happy to trust that review.

-phone-

The chap with the X-trail seems to have burnt his original clutch in a short space of time. Operator error? In the breif follow-up He did say not as quiet or smooth.

Here is an alternative view for you. If I could get a suitable DMF for my 3.9 turbo diesel 4wd, I would. I would ditch the single mass in a heartbeat to get smoother and vibration free drive at very low rpm.
My tdi skoda has a DMF, my YD22 nissan has a SMF. The Skoda is far far better.

I know the internet is full of disdain for DMF's. But it's almost all from people who don't understand their function or reason for existance. You can guarantee that if Nissan could have saved $20 and fitted a SMF at the factory, they would have. There were serious downsides for them not to.
A SMF has to be much much heavier than a DMF to provide the same vibration reduction.

edk
27-01-2013, 06:03 AM
And if i could find a DMF replacement to take 330lbft reliably id sooner buy that over an SMF.

He was talking about the clutch, because TTV gave him a 6 puk disc. I will use a sprung full face so that will keep operation of the clutch smooth and quiet. Ill just have to see how i get on with the SMF but Im willing to give it a shot. I know the risks and what i may be missing without the DMF...

-phone-

edk
18-06-2013, 02:30 PM
Here's a brief How To for the drive shaft modifications needed when using the B15 SpecV HLSD. I'll make it's own thread on completion.

You need to buy Nissan Primera P12 2.2 dCi drive shafts. These are early dCi, maybe late Di that were both fitted with the 6 speed box (NOT the 5 speed early ones). The important part is that the drive shafts you buy have an inner spline count of 29. This is what goes into the differential and matches it's spline count.

P12 top, N16 bellow, passenger side shafts.
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm117/edkeating/Car/Almera/Transmission%20and%20Powertrain/20130507_113354-1.jpg ('http://s294.photobucket.com/user/edkeating/media/Car/Almera/Transmission%20and%20Powertrain/20130507_113354-1.jpg.html')


You'll need to swap the inner CV cup and it's internals from the P12 shaft and put them on the N16's.

1. cut off the inner CV boots

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm117/edkeating/Car/Almera/Transmission%20and%20Powertrain/20130518_160908.jpg ('http://s294.photobucket.com/user/edkeating/media/Car/Almera/Transmission%20and%20Powertrain/20130518_160908.jpg.html')


2. On the inside edge of the CV cup there is a ring clip. Prise that out with a knife or small flat head screw driver. It's easy to remove. Then you can pull the shaft out along with the CV internals.

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm117/edkeating/Car/Almera/Transmission%20and%20Powertrain/20130518_154355.jpg ('http://s294.photobucket.com/user/edkeating/media/Car/Almera/Transmission%20and%20Powertrain/20130518_154355.jpg.html')

3. Clean off the grease. It's sticky stubborn stuff so you might want to use glove and an old rag to wipe it down. The ball bearings will drop. Push the cage aside. Remove the stop circlip which is butted up to the hub (star shaped bit). This one is a little more tricky to remove. Proper circlip pliers or nose plug pliers opened out.

4. Push the hub inwards over where the stop circlip was. You'll see a spring clip on the end of the drive shaft. Remove this. Now the hub can be removed, along with the cage.

5. Put the hub, cage, and everything else back together from the P12 onto the N16 shaft.

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm117/edkeating/Car/Almera/Transmission%20and%20Powertrain/Innver_CV_swap_for_SpecV_HLSD_01.jpg ('http://s294.photobucket.com/user/edkeating/media/Car/Almera/Transmission%20and%20Powertrain/Innver_CV_swap_for_SpecV_HLSD_01.jpg.html')

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm117/edkeating/Car/Almera/Transmission%20and%20Powertrain/Innver_CV_swap_for_SpecV_HLSD_02.jpg ('http://s294.photobucket.com/user/edkeating/media/Car/Almera/Transmission%20and%20Powertrain/Innver_CV_swap_for_SpecV_HLSD_02.jpg.html')

For some reason only changing the CV cups using N16 CV internals there was binding, this is why I think it's best to use the P12 internals as well.
.

Kiwibacon
18-06-2013, 09:47 PM
There is nothing quite as sticky and gross as CV joint grease.

CV joints will be assembled with the balls and cups graded to fit within tight tolerances. The chances of good operation (no binding or knocking) when mixing/matching parts is pretty low.

edk
18-06-2013, 10:02 PM
There is nothing quite as sticky and gross as CV joint grease.

Too true!


CV joints will be assembled with the balls and cups graded to fit within tight tolerances. The chances of good operation (no binding or knocking) when mixing/matching parts is pretty low.

Ah I see, must be very slight difference then. So yeah, best to keep the hub and cages together then.